How To Repair An Aqua Rite Led Screen
Note: I've had many requests asking if I have whatsoever of the parts (thermistor/Ametherm SL32 2R025 BigAMP current inrush limiter and the Littlefuse V150LA2P varistor) required for this fix. I now have some! They are currently listed on Craigslist and Webstore (I took the listing off eBay because it gets prohibitively expensive for an cheap item such as this). I bought several and will ship them in the U.S. via first course mail for free. If the links higher up don't work, search for "Ametherm." You should observe the listing. By the way, I don't repair pools for a living (I'm a computer geek) and I don't make my living trying to sell current inrush limiters. I'm but doing this to assist others out.
Nosotros accept one of those salt water chlorination systems on our swimming puddle that works pretty well. It does demand some help in the summertime when it gets really hot here in Texas, because our puddle is nigh forty,000 gallons (Texas sized)! This summertime (2009) we've been having some real problems with algae, especially the black kind. If you've never had blackness algae, it's bad stuff. Once it gets started, it attaches itself to the plaster and begins to eat it away. Too treating the pool, you have to manually scrub, dig, sand, selection or chisel the algae out of the pores of the plaster. When yous do remove information technology, you'll see pitting from where it's been attached. Bad stuff.
We've been fighting this all summertime and, one morning time I went out to visit the exterior Aqua Rite controller and found that the greenish "generating" light was non lit. In fact, at that place was only 1 light on…I remember it was the power light and, if I remember correctly, it was cerise instead of green. I may be wrong on this, merely I practice remember at that place was just one light on and I said, "Dang, now I know why we've been fighting having enough chlorine in the pool all summertime!" Yeah, the thing'south been busted all summer long. Probably happened in the bound during ane of our thunderstorms.
I called technical support at Goldline Controls (now part of Hayward) @ 908-355-7995. The helpful rep walked me through pushing the piffling test button to the left of the LCD display and I read him the readings it displayed. One of them was 0.0. I retrieve that was the 1 that immediately made him say, "You lot've got a bad board." I chosen the local repair facility and nearly had a heart assault when they told me it would cost $360+ to supercede the board. Ouch. Doing some checking on eBay, I constitute that 1 could be had for a mere $180…most half the cost. I thought it was worth a try to attempt a repair (okay, I'm cheap).
Being an electrical engineer, I immediately opened the case and removed the front panel to expose the innards. It's like shooting fish in a barrel to get inside. Just remove the ii screws on the front console and grab the top of the panel in the hole provided. Of course, you should do this with the power off!
When I removed the cover I looked carefully around and noticed that at that place was a dark-brown spot on the printed excursion lath in the upper right corner near a big, blackness disc. From what I've seen (and done) in the past, it looked similar a component had fried on the board. So, I proceeded to remove the board. All you need to do is remove all the connectors attached to the board and, if you have an Aqua Link, unscrew the 4 wires that provide the communication to the Aqua Link. Don't forget the little RJ-11 (telephone) connector at the lesser of the board that is plugged in on the outside of the box. Not a big deal, as all the connections are conveniently identified past color on the PCB (printed circuit board). In this photo I accept the power on…y'all should, of course, have the power off when you lot remove the board!
Every bit I did some enquiry, I found that others have had similar issues to mine. It turns out that the big black disc is a varistor. A varistor is normally used as a protection device that, at a certain voltage, changes its resistance to a low value. It essentially "shorts out" voltage spikes. The idea is to protect from things like power surges acquired by lightning strikes and the similar. Turns out this one had given its life for the protection of the PCB. My hat's off to you lot, Mr. Varistor! You saved my lath. I'd gladly give you lot my Bud.
Boosted inquiry (i.e. Googling) was washed to locate the the function number of the varistors…aye, there are more than one! Withal, in my instance, there was only one that was a problem. The other ii are much smaller. The big one is an SL32-2R025-B fabricated by Ametherm. The smaller ones (that I didn't supercede) are V150LA2P fabricated by Littelfuse. They are the footling red discs that flank both sides of the blackness final strip on the lower left of the PCB. I ordered the SL32-2R025-B from eBay from STI_Trade for the whopping price of $1.99 (plus shipping). I ordered 2, but really got four, considering they came two to a packet. I think the whole thing came to $7.08. So, I take some extras. I might only give 1 or two of them away if someone asks me for them (and proves that someone is reading my blog)!
When I removed the varistor from the board with a soldering fe, it literally fell apart in pieces. Installing information technology was non a big bargain if you're familiar with soldering…a 15 minute job. The moment of truth was when I re-installed the lath and powered it all back up. Worked similar a hose!
I told my wife I saved $360 – $7.08 = $352.92. That qualifies me for some brownie points!
I constitute a post on how to calibrate the Aqua Rite. If you have a Jandy Aqua Link system, brand sure information technology is in service mode before attempting this process, else it won't actually practice much!
Move the switch to the Auto position. If the switch is already in the Car or Super Chlorinate position, motion information technology to Off then back to Auto.
Await for the relay to click, then push the diagnostics button five times to the instant common salt level with the minus sign in forepart.
Wait for the instant salt level to stop moving lower, make sure it is within the range of 2700-3400, and then move the switch up to Super Chlorinate then back downwards to Motorcar. This saves the instant salt level reading as the new default which, in effect, recalibrates the unit to be able to run normally and chlorinate the pool.
The values on the display for each printing of the button to the left of the display are:
Here are some more than pictures.
Related links:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pools-spas-hot-tubs/355004-aquarite-chlorine-generator.html
http://www.troublefreepool.com/aquarite-goldline-controls-what-do-the-numbers-on-lcd-mean-t16707.html
How To Repair An Aqua Rite Led Screen,
Source: https://idoneitmyself.com/2009/08/23/repairing-my-aqua-rite-that-was-damaged-by-lightning/
Posted by: duncanhaime1998.blogspot.com
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